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Mountaineering Methodology
Приєднався 30 жов 2011
Videos from e-book Mountaineering Methodology, textbook for iPad and Mac. Also available in Google Play as a PDF.
Fixing a carabiner on a steel rope
Fixing a carabiner using the slings of a Via ferrata kit on a steel cable. (Video from e-book Mountaineering Methodology, www.mountaineeringmethodology.com)
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Відео
Chock extension
Переглядів 7358 років тому
Sometimes a situation arises that we cannot reach the place where a chock could be placed and in the situation where there is no other belay around. Then, you feel sorry about those several missing centimetres. Here are instructions how to extend the chock a little. (Video from e-book Mountaineering Methodology, www.mountaineeringmethodology.com)
Lorenzi
Переглядів 2,1 тис.8 років тому
Construction and basic elements of the function of the Lorenzi method. (Video from e-book Mountaineering Methodology, www.mountaineeringmethodology.com)
Remy
Переглядів 7248 років тому
Construction and basic elements of the function of the Remy method. (Video from e-book Mountaineering Methodology, www.mountaineeringmethodology.com)
Creating central loop with double bowline
Переглядів 1,4 тис.9 років тому
Creating the central loop of the equalising runner by tying a double bowline. First, somewhat surprisingly, tie an overhand knot, folding its loop over the knot. Then slightly pull the two strands leading from the overhand knot immediately to the loop of the knot, thereby using them to create the final loop of the double bowline. The original loop of the overhand knot is shortened by winding an...
Tying in - first phase of figure eight knot
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First phase of figure eight knot. (Video from e-book Mountaineering Methodology, www.mountaineeringmethodology.com)
Clipping - method 2
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Method of clipping a rope to the carabiner of an intermediate point of protection. Clipping - method 2. (Video from e-book Mountaineering Methodology, www.mountaineeringmethodology.com)
Clipping - method 3
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Method of clipping a rope to the carabiner of an intermediate point of protection. Clipping - method 3. (Video from e-book Mountaineering Methodology, www.mountaineeringmethodology.com)
Clipping - method 1
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Method of clipping a rope to the carabiner of an intermediate point of protection. (Video from e-book Mountaineering Methodology, www.mountaineeringmethodology.com)
Incorrect assembly of self-blocking pulley with Tibloc
Переглядів 5 тис.10 років тому
Rope is out of the carabiner and Tibloc bears the whole load. Tibloc is not designed for such excessive loads. (Video from e-book Mountaineering Methodology, www.mountaineeringmethodology.com)
Tibloc as self-blocking pulley
Переглядів 31 тис.10 років тому
Use of Tibloc ascender as self-blocking pulley. Right strand of rope is for pulling, left strand is loaded. (Video from e-book Mountaineering Methodology, www.mountaineeringmethodology.com)
Basic functions of Tibloc
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Under load the carbine presses to the rope, when the load is lowered the rope is released and the Tibloc can be moved up. (Video from e-book Mountaineering Methodology, www.mountaineeringmethodology.com)
Rope climbing with Reverso 1
Переглядів 7 тис.10 років тому
Rope climbing with Reverso 1 Again, this method again uses self-locking function, but Reverso is in inverted position in comparison to protection. Rope climbing with Reverso is very laborious and strenuous. This method of rope climbing is good for short climbs only. (Video from e-book Mountaineering Methodology, www.mountaineeringmethodology.com)
Typical common carabiner on a klettersteig (via ferreta)
Переглядів 74310 років тому
A classic "K" type carabiner designed for a klettersteig with bayonet construction and a spring-loaded locking gate. This type of gate is not screwed in, and only moves up/down when pressing against the spring action. (Video from e-book Mountaineering Methodology, www.mountaineeringmethodology.com)
Skylotec
Переглядів 87910 років тому
The Skylotec, an ascender designed for the steel cable of a klettersteig. (Video from e-book Mountaineering Methodology, www.mountaineeringmethodology.com)
Light pulley suitable for the glacier
Переглядів 1,7 тис.10 років тому
Light pulley suitable for the glacier
Jolly fall absorber designed for glaciers
Переглядів 1,9 тис.10 років тому
Jolly fall absorber designed for glaciers
Releasing the embedded pick of an ice tool
Переглядів 64910 років тому
Releasing the embedded pick of an ice tool
Rappelling station in ice that can be easily dismantled
Переглядів 3,7 тис.10 років тому
Rappelling station in ice that can be easily dismantled
Placing a rappel device on the rope
Переглядів 6 тис.10 років тому
Placing a rappel device on the rope
Setting up for rappelling at the top of a tower
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Setting up for rappelling at the top of a tower
Removing a rappelling eight from the rope
Переглядів 8 тис.10 років тому
Removing a rappelling eight from the rope
Tying a figure eight follow through
Переглядів 3,7 тис.10 років тому
Tying a figure eight follow through
The smooth passage of an offset knot
Переглядів 2,4 тис.10 років тому
The smooth passage of an offset knot
Thank you for providing this helpful and clear demonstration. Well done.
This is a first generation Tibloc, and the manual apparently says NOT to put the rope through the carabiner. The newer (second) generation model's manual apparently says either method will work. If someone has a link to the manuals saying otherwise please post it for everyone's benefit.
Why don't you use a carabiner with a twistgate if you're trying to prevent it from unwanted opening.....at least that way you wouldn't lose either the carabiner or the sling that's fastened to it (remember that you're relying on these things to save you from a potentially fatal fall IF you fall & the quickdraw comes loose from the rock face)
bomber
The only benefit with a snarg compare to an ice screw must be the price. I dont know how it is in other countries but here in Sweden you can still buy them. And you can get them for about 25-30% of the price of a modern screw.
Excellent thanks
Obrigado por compartilhar! Saudações desde Brasil!
Obrigado por compartilhar! Saudações desde Brasil!
Weekend whipper
How are you going to lift the rope up in the very beginning without it running away theough the figure 8? Your first step would let off the brake and that rope would start sliding fast
100% dead if you whip
👍🌞
Everything on this vid is vintage
firsties. this is a great knot
Now try doing that just after descending
Наглядно! Грамотно! Но лучеше бур.
Nobody pulls out anymore.
good but could be closer!
Used this as safety climbing half dome cables~~>lovy.biz/kk66?お Never fell, so never really needed it, but good quality sling and I will use it in many other adventures.
Good quality slings.~~>lovy.biz/kk66?も I use them for rigging small equipment to lift with a crane.
A versatile and very strong~~>lovy.biz/kk66?らf Exceptionally useful in a variety of sometimes complicated situations on the rock. Be safe and SEND IT!
*fast shipping! came in 10 days before its estimated time✏️>**allmy.tips/ClimbingAscender?ちl** Quality looks good. didn't try it yet but im excited!*
*Seems like a well made pulley➣>**allmy.tips/FusionPulley?ss✱ ** Going to use it to guide an extension cord from my shed to my house to start my snow blower.*
i cant trust this
How can this be avoided?
clip the quickdraw with the spine facing in the direction of travel, and this won't happen (is much much less likely)
You can also use a screw-lock, double-action, or tri-locking carabiner to avoid this scenario
WTF! Wrong use of device, read the instructions.
Wrong use of t-block..! Please, read instruction how to use the device. If rope doesn't go through it, this may be dangerous..
Petzl instructions show either configuration as acceptable for the second generation tibloc. I don't have instructions for the first gen device however. If a carabiner is being used as a pulley however, using with a tibloc for progress capture, the rope must pass through the carabiner.
@@2bfrank657 i've seen instructions and the problem is that tiblocs looks very similar so, there's high probability that someone makes mistake..
Would you ever use that over an ice-screw in modern climbing?
No, you would not.
There's a reason why the carabiner is loose on that side especially in sport climbing it keeps the Carabiner from opening by accident
"effective and safe method" my ass. Use a back up.
Thank you! This would be same method used to lock off munter hitch, with Swiss rappel seat. I went off that 60 foot tower, Marine Recruit Depot myself 40 years ago. Some Marines make the case for abortion apparently?
How the hell do you get that thing out?
Looks like it should come out easily by pulling it (at a certain angle)
false handling! the rope has to go through the carabiner and the tibloc
exsactly my thoughts, pure logic states that crab has to be cliped around the rope, but quite a lot of ilustrations show same setup as in this video......i have used it only cupple times and only cliped trough the hole but in a way to capture the rope as well(same way person would clip crab trough top hole of asender)
Not for the second generation tibloc it doesn't. Don't have instructions for the first gen device though.
Why don't you put a turn to the other side?
We MARINES don't have these fancy doodads of civilian nature for our rappelling. Sissys.....
Looks like we have a real tough guy over here.
Yes we do?
Well less friction am i right
A figure 8 descender hardly qualifies as a fancy doodad. A locking carabiner is more complex. Do you not use those as well?
@@hansg6336 probably not, considering they eat crayons....
no autoblock, dangerous AF
It's wrong video for stemming..
See, it's not so hard to get over it.
He's learning how to get over it.
yay, I'm the first person out of 8,000 people to comment
Why
I didn't like that placement. It looked like it was the wrong size, too small. The pivot point, lower right, didn't have much to bite into. That's the part that is going to move in a hard downward fall. It could just be my viewpoint doesn't allow me to see it clearly. But that was my impression. Love tri-cams though. Very underrated, but very useful.
if you do this...stay at home and play video games
Well it's not necessarily dangerous, is it? Just unclip one carabiner at a time, clip it on the other side and you are good to go.
You got a lot of nuts posting a vid like this
Ha
That piece appears to be a bit big for that crack. While it appears solid, I feel we could do better. The tricam in the video is sitting flat, and there is no camming action going on. One size smaller, and the fulcrum point would be able to dig in much better (better camming) and be less likely to slide straight out during a fall
Absolutely right, Jack. I immediately saw the same thing. This is NOT how to place a tri cam. Go with the next smaller size so that it does in fact create a camming action. If you took a hard leader fall on the one placed in this video, I'd give it more than 50% odd that it would pull out because it is not camping at all - it is only acting as a wedge, and a not very good one at that.
i don't think this is coming out, there are a few degrees of caming
Good video! I'm trying to pick up more micro-skills like this. Things like tying knots easily one-handed, holding cams in your teeth, etc. Things that don't much to do with climbing directly, but that help while doing it. Does your book have more stuff like this, or is it mostly on your youtube channel?
very cool how it self unravels ]
i dont understand the intended use for this.
I live in a mountainous desert region could these be used to hang a hammock ?
definitely. Assuming cracks in the right positions.
Could you use it as an adjustable tether as part of a PAS for sports climing? One end of tether tied to harness, other end with stopper knot. When reach top of climb, clip carabiner/tibloc to anchor eye bolt and pull out slack.
The teeth on the Tibloc will put unecessary wear on the rope, use a clove hitch on a locking carabiner instead