Mountaineering Methodology
Mountaineering Methodology
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Fixing a carabiner on a steel rope
Fixing a carabiner using the slings of a Via ferrata kit on a steel cable. (Video from e-book Mountaineering Methodology, www.mountaineeringmethodology.com)
Переглядів: 2 088

Відео

Chock extension
Переглядів 7358 років тому
Sometimes a situation arises that we cannot reach the place where a chock could be placed and in the situation where there is no other belay around. Then, you feel sorry about those several missing centimetres. Here are instructions how to extend the chock a little. (Video from e-book Mountaineering Methodology, www.mountaineeringmethodology.com)
Lorenzi
Переглядів 2,1 тис.8 років тому
Construction and basic elements of the function of the Lorenzi method. (Video from e-book Mountaineering Methodology, www.mountaineeringmethodology.com)
Remy
Переглядів 7248 років тому
Construction and basic elements of the function of the Remy method. (Video from e-book Mountaineering Methodology, www.mountaineeringmethodology.com)
Creating central loop with double bowline
Переглядів 1,4 тис.9 років тому
Creating the central loop of the equalising runner by tying a double bowline. First, somewhat surprisingly, tie an overhand knot, folding its loop over the knot. Then slightly pull the two strands leading from the overhand knot immediately to the loop of the knot, thereby using them to create the final loop of the double bowline. The original loop of the overhand knot is shortened by winding an...
Tying in - first phase of figure eight knot
Переглядів 3329 років тому
First phase of figure eight knot. (Video from e-book Mountaineering Methodology, www.mountaineeringmethodology.com)
Clipping - method 2
Переглядів 6599 років тому
Method of clipping a rope to the carabiner of an intermediate point of protection. Clipping - method 2. (Video from e-book Mountaineering Methodology, www.mountaineeringmethodology.com)
Clipping - method 3
Переглядів 6669 років тому
Method of clipping a rope to the carabiner of an intermediate point of protection. Clipping - method 3. (Video from e-book Mountaineering Methodology, www.mountaineeringmethodology.com)
Clipping - method 1
Переглядів 6799 років тому
Method of clipping a rope to the carabiner of an intermediate point of protection. (Video from e-book Mountaineering Methodology, www.mountaineeringmethodology.com)
Incorrect assembly of self-blocking pulley with Tibloc
Переглядів 5 тис.10 років тому
Rope is out of the carabiner and Tibloc bears the whole load. Tibloc is not designed for such excessive loads. (Video from e-book Mountaineering Methodology, www.mountaineeringmethodology.com)
Tibloc as self-blocking pulley
Переглядів 31 тис.10 років тому
Use of Tibloc ascender as self-blocking pulley. Right strand of rope is for pulling, left strand is loaded. (Video from e-book Mountaineering Methodology, www.mountaineeringmethodology.com)
Basic functions of Tibloc
Переглядів 75 тис.10 років тому
Under load the carbine presses to the rope, when the load is lowered the rope is released and the Tibloc can be moved up. (Video from e-book Mountaineering Methodology, www.mountaineeringmethodology.com)
Rope climbing with Reverso 1
Переглядів 7 тис.10 років тому
Rope climbing with Reverso 1 Again, this method again uses self-locking function, but Reverso is in inverted position in comparison to protection. Rope climbing with Reverso is very laborious and strenuous. This method of rope climbing is good for short climbs only. (Video from e-book Mountaineering Methodology, www.mountaineeringmethodology.com)
Typical common carabiner on a klettersteig (via ferreta)
Переглядів 74310 років тому
A classic "K" type carabiner designed for a klettersteig with bayonet construction and a spring-loaded locking gate. This type of gate is not screwed in, and only moves up/down when pressing against the spring action. (Video from e-book Mountaineering Methodology, www.mountaineeringmethodology.com)
Skylotec
Переглядів 87910 років тому
The Skylotec, an ascender designed for the steel cable of a klettersteig. (Video from e-book Mountaineering Methodology, www.mountaineeringmethodology.com)
Light pulley suitable for the glacier
Переглядів 1,7 тис.10 років тому
Light pulley suitable for the glacier
Jolly fall absorber designed for glaciers
Переглядів 1,9 тис.10 років тому
Jolly fall absorber designed for glaciers
Walking without crampons on firn
Переглядів 2,4 тис.10 років тому
Walking without crampons on firn
Snarg
Переглядів 2,9 тис.10 років тому
Snarg
Releasing the embedded pick of an ice tool
Переглядів 64910 років тому
Releasing the embedded pick of an ice tool
Rappelling station in ice that can be easily dismantled
Переглядів 3,7 тис.10 років тому
Rappelling station in ice that can be easily dismantled
Placing a deadman
Переглядів 21 тис.10 років тому
Placing a deadman
Placing a rappel device on the rope
Переглядів 6 тис.10 років тому
Placing a rappel device on the rope
Setting up for rappelling at the top of a tower
Переглядів 9 тис.10 років тому
Setting up for rappelling at the top of a tower
Removing a rappelling eight from the rope
Переглядів 8 тис.10 років тому
Removing a rappelling eight from the rope
Rappelling in rugged rock terrain
Переглядів 4,5 тис.10 років тому
Rappelling in rugged rock terrain
Tying a figure eight follow through
Переглядів 3,7 тис.10 років тому
Tying a figure eight follow through
Over-jump
Переглядів 1,8 тис.10 років тому
Over-jump
The smooth passage of an offset knot
Переглядів 2,4 тис.10 років тому
The smooth passage of an offset knot
Tying the rope to the belayer
Переглядів 2,3 тис.10 років тому
Tying the rope to the belayer

КОМЕНТАРІ

  • @Mount_Bowen_climber
    @Mount_Bowen_climber 2 місяці тому

    Thank you for providing this helpful and clear demonstration. Well done.

  • @bms9144
    @bms9144 Рік тому

    This is a first generation Tibloc, and the manual apparently says NOT to put the rope through the carabiner. The newer (second) generation model's manual apparently says either method will work. If someone has a link to the manuals saying otherwise please post it for everyone's benefit.

  • @martinthrone7012
    @martinthrone7012 Рік тому

    Why don't you use a carabiner with a twistgate if you're trying to prevent it from unwanted opening.....at least that way you wouldn't lose either the carabiner or the sling that's fastened to it (remember that you're relying on these things to save you from a potentially fatal fall IF you fall & the quickdraw comes loose from the rock face)

  • @testboga5991
    @testboga5991 Рік тому

    bomber

  • @grimlund
    @grimlund Рік тому

    The only benefit with a snarg compare to an ice screw must be the price. I dont know how it is in other countries but here in Sweden you can still buy them. And you can get them for about 25-30% of the price of a modern screw.

  • @And-rc9yy
    @And-rc9yy Рік тому

    Excellent thanks

  • @TSchulzeMasterClimb
    @TSchulzeMasterClimb Рік тому

    Obrigado por compartilhar! Saudações desde Brasil!

  • @TSchulzeMasterClimb
    @TSchulzeMasterClimb Рік тому

    Obrigado por compartilhar! Saudações desde Brasil!

  • @ArgentinaStyle
    @ArgentinaStyle Рік тому

    Weekend whipper

  • @jamesdrakcip9276
    @jamesdrakcip9276 2 роки тому

    How are you going to lift the rope up in the very beginning without it running away theough the figure 8? Your first step would let off the brake and that rope would start sliding fast

  • @WillTheFrozen
    @WillTheFrozen 3 роки тому

    100% dead if you whip

  • @sandr877
    @sandr877 3 роки тому

    👍🌞

  • @bearsharkp3901
    @bearsharkp3901 3 роки тому

    Everything on this vid is vintage

  • @willderhoonin
    @willderhoonin 3 роки тому

    firsties. this is a great knot

  • @pizeblu
    @pizeblu 3 роки тому

    Now try doing that just after descending

  • @sandr877
    @sandr877 3 роки тому

    Наглядно! Грамотно! Но лучеше бур.

  • @AZDesertExplorer
    @AZDesertExplorer 4 роки тому

    Nobody pulls out anymore.

  • @edwinsnell5078
    @edwinsnell5078 4 роки тому

    good but could be closer!

  • @videogmvp
    @videogmvp 4 роки тому

    Used this as safety climbing half dome cables~~>lovy.biz/kk66?お Never fell, so never really needed it, but good quality sling and I will use it in many other adventures.

  • @gkuthn
    @gkuthn 4 роки тому

    Good quality slings.~~>lovy.biz/kk66?も I use them for rigging small equipment to lift with a crane.

  • @jingyima4150
    @jingyima4150 4 роки тому

    A versatile and very strong~~>lovy.biz/kk66?らf Exceptionally useful in a variety of sometimes complicated situations on the rock. Be safe and SEND IT!

  • @farmklin
    @farmklin 4 роки тому

    *fast shipping! came in 10 days before its estimated time✏️>**allmy.tips/ClimbingAscender?ちl** Quality looks good. didn't try it yet but im excited!*

  • @diannv.8036
    @diannv.8036 4 роки тому

    *Seems like a well made pulley➣>**allmy.tips/FusionPulley?ss✱ ** Going to use it to guide an extension cord from my shed to my house to start my snow blower.*

  • @alessampiyonu
    @alessampiyonu 4 роки тому

    i cant trust this

  • @michaelschmid3570
    @michaelschmid3570 5 років тому

    How can this be avoided?

    • @matthewbentley9095
      @matthewbentley9095 4 роки тому

      clip the quickdraw with the spine facing in the direction of travel, and this won't happen (is much much less likely)

    • @titlo3646
      @titlo3646 2 роки тому

      You can also use a screw-lock, double-action, or tri-locking carabiner to avoid this scenario

  • @rogerdarlow2098
    @rogerdarlow2098 5 років тому

    WTF! Wrong use of device, read the instructions.

  • @klaudiataszprzewodniktatrz9769
    @klaudiataszprzewodniktatrz9769 5 років тому

    Wrong use of t-block..! Please, read instruction how to use the device. If rope doesn't go through it, this may be dangerous..

    • @2bfrank657
      @2bfrank657 2 місяці тому

      Petzl instructions show either configuration as acceptable for the second generation tibloc. I don't have instructions for the first gen device however. If a carabiner is being used as a pulley however, using with a tibloc for progress capture, the rope must pass through the carabiner.

    • @klaudiataszprzewodniktatrz9769
      @klaudiataszprzewodniktatrz9769 2 місяці тому

      @@2bfrank657 i've seen instructions and the problem is that tiblocs looks very similar so, there's high probability that someone makes mistake..

  • @mcbrite
    @mcbrite 5 років тому

    Would you ever use that over an ice-screw in modern climbing?

    • @pchernik
      @pchernik 4 роки тому

      No, you would not.

  • @tateabdon1
    @tateabdon1 5 років тому

    There's a reason why the carabiner is loose on that side especially in sport climbing it keeps the Carabiner from opening by accident

  • @ethanbanich103
    @ethanbanich103 5 років тому

    "effective and safe method" my ass. Use a back up.

  • @dirkanderson1606
    @dirkanderson1606 5 років тому

    Thank you! This would be same method used to lock off munter hitch, with Swiss rappel seat. I went off that 60 foot tower, Marine Recruit Depot myself 40 years ago. Some Marines make the case for abortion apparently?

  • @thoughtthrottle.
    @thoughtthrottle. 5 років тому

    How the hell do you get that thing out?

    • @pchernik
      @pchernik 4 роки тому

      Looks like it should come out easily by pulling it (at a certain angle)

  • @raphaels7362
    @raphaels7362 5 років тому

    false handling! the rope has to go through the carabiner and the tibloc

    • @igneous061
      @igneous061 5 років тому

      exsactly my thoughts, pure logic states that crab has to be cliped around the rope, but quite a lot of ilustrations show same setup as in this video......i have used it only cupple times and only cliped trough the hole but in a way to capture the rope as well(same way person would clip crab trough top hole of asender)

    • @2bfrank657
      @2bfrank657 2 місяці тому

      Not for the second generation tibloc it doesn't. Don't have instructions for the first gen device though.

  • @Jinjukei
    @Jinjukei 5 років тому

    Why don't you put a turn to the other side?

  • @tgoodman8883
    @tgoodman8883 6 років тому

    We MARINES don't have these fancy doodads of civilian nature for our rappelling. Sissys.....

    • @nickgrothe9279
      @nickgrothe9279 5 років тому

      Looks like we have a real tough guy over here.

    • @brodyleephotography2177
      @brodyleephotography2177 4 роки тому

      Yes we do?

    • @yawningdog9894
      @yawningdog9894 3 роки тому

      Well less friction am i right

    • @hansg6336
      @hansg6336 3 роки тому

      A figure 8 descender hardly qualifies as a fancy doodad. A locking carabiner is more complex. Do you not use those as well?

    • @didgitalpunk
      @didgitalpunk 3 роки тому

      @@hansg6336 probably not, considering they eat crayons....

  • @briangoeringer1650
    @briangoeringer1650 6 років тому

    no autoblock, dangerous AF

  • @Vicky-zy3vr
    @Vicky-zy3vr 6 років тому

    It's wrong video for stemming..

  • @elce5008
    @elce5008 6 років тому

    See, it's not so hard to get over it.

  • @hierkommtalex7762
    @hierkommtalex7762 6 років тому

    He's learning how to get over it.

  • @videotape5007
    @videotape5007 6 років тому

    yay, I'm the first person out of 8,000 people to comment

    • @sdriza
      @sdriza 6 місяців тому

      Why

  • @OnlyTheStrongSurvive712
    @OnlyTheStrongSurvive712 6 років тому

    I didn't like that placement. It looked like it was the wrong size, too small. The pivot point, lower right, didn't have much to bite into. That's the part that is going to move in a hard downward fall. It could just be my viewpoint doesn't allow me to see it clearly. But that was my impression. Love tri-cams though. Very underrated, but very useful.

  • @Achisachis73
    @Achisachis73 6 років тому

    if you do this...stay at home and play video games

    • @ZwittRion
      @ZwittRion 4 роки тому

      Well it's not necessarily dangerous, is it? Just unclip one carabiner at a time, clip it on the other side and you are good to go.

  • @banjopoodleman
    @banjopoodleman 7 років тому

    You got a lot of nuts posting a vid like this

  • @banjopoodleman
    @banjopoodleman 7 років тому

    That piece appears to be a bit big for that crack. While it appears solid, I feel we could do better. The tricam in the video is sitting flat, and there is no camming action going on. One size smaller, and the fulcrum point would be able to dig in much better (better camming) and be less likely to slide straight out during a fall

    • @TommyMacMXClimber
      @TommyMacMXClimber 6 років тому

      Absolutely right, Jack. I immediately saw the same thing. This is NOT how to place a tri cam. Go with the next smaller size so that it does in fact create a camming action. If you took a hard leader fall on the one placed in this video, I'd give it more than 50% odd that it would pull out because it is not camping at all - it is only acting as a wedge, and a not very good one at that.

    • @testboga5991
      @testboga5991 Рік тому

      i don't think this is coming out, there are a few degrees of caming

  • @liamelliott3779
    @liamelliott3779 7 років тому

    Good video! I'm trying to pick up more micro-skills like this. Things like tying knots easily one-handed, holding cams in your teeth, etc. Things that don't much to do with climbing directly, but that help while doing it. Does your book have more stuff like this, or is it mostly on your youtube channel?

  • @danmaltby3271
    @danmaltby3271 7 років тому

    very cool how it self unravels ]

  • @appak001
    @appak001 7 років тому

    i dont understand the intended use for this.

  • @Dariutus1
    @Dariutus1 8 років тому

    I live in a mountainous desert region could these be used to hang a hammock ?

    • @Nicookr
      @Nicookr 7 років тому

      definitely. Assuming cracks in the right positions.

  • @MrFreddofrog1857
    @MrFreddofrog1857 8 років тому

    Could you use it as an adjustable tether as part of a PAS for sports climing? One end of tether tied to harness, other end with stopper knot. When reach top of climb, clip carabiner/tibloc to anchor eye bolt and pull out slack.

    • @drewmaggio1275
      @drewmaggio1275 6 років тому

      The teeth on the Tibloc will put unecessary wear on the rope, use a clove hitch on a locking carabiner instead